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Sup Tubsweetie. You got any experience with CRTs? Anyone else for that matter. | |||||||
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Okay let’s do this.
I was thinking why it would go dim and lose its zoom clamp. The dim is because the electron gun isn’t doing its job. The zoom is because the horizontal and vertical coils aren’t doing their job. What drives both of those? The Flyback transformer. 100% certain the flyback went out on it. I’ve read that if a CRT fails it’s most likely to be the flyback regardless. Which makes sense because that transformer cranks the ~120 volts input to somewhere between 10 and 30 thousand volts. there’s a whole lot of really damn tiny wire in there that’s prone to burning out.
So, what to do about this… Internet suggests adding more loops to the coil; impossible as any crt from the last 15 years is sealed. Internet suggests doing some weird thing to revive the crt; sounds bs but here’s the link, see what you think: http://ezinearticles.com/?How-To-Restore-Picture-Tube-Without-using-a-crt-tester,-restorer-or-rejuvenator&id=548647
My suggestion is to replace the flyback; but that’ll be damn hard. You’d have to find an exact model AND get it off the board without ruining it or killing yourself. Flybacks have a circular pinout that’s ****ing hard to work with imo.
Then there’s also the inherent risk of playing inside a CRT to consider. The majority of the parts in there are extremely high voltage; the sort of stuff that’ll kill you instantly.
You could always pull the main red cable from the flyback off the CRT (ground off the CRT first, it’s a giant capacitor) and put it near a ground. Turning the thing on should show an arc about 1-3 cm long. If it doesn’t arc then the flyback is confirmed dead. If it does make a nice big arc, the electron gun or deflection coils are dead. |
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Posted On: 12/09/2008 12:57PM | View TUBSWEETIE's Profile | # | ||||||
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TUBSWEETIE Posted:
That’s with it unplugged, mind you. People who actually know what they’re doing are hesitant to crack one of those ****ers open. |
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Posted On: 12/09/2008 2:00PM | View SimplyTHEBEST's Profile | # | ||||||
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Repairing CRT screens is no longer cost-effective. The handful of people that still know what they are doing will just charge you an arm and leg to repair this crap. And unless you have alot of electronic repair technician experience I’d strongly suggest against doing it yourself.
While most CRTs have bleeder resistors to make sure that the residual charge in the capacitors are drained quickly those can always fail and you could be tinkering around with a CRT that has relatively high residual voltage.
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Posted On: 12/09/2008 2:09PM | View Vuron's Profile | # | ||||||
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SimplyTHEBEST Posted:
Of course. But if the flyback is disconnected from the actual tube it should be much safer. i didn’t mention that it’d be wise to short all the pins on the flyback before removing it because I was waiting for falcon to respond about it. |
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Posted On: 12/09/2008 2:14PM | View TUBSWEETIE's Profile | # | ||||||
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Vuron Posted:
Good point. Finding a replacement flyback or whatever is involved in fixing isn’t worth it for an old CRT. And yes, i haven’t stressed enough that CRTs are the most lethal shock-dangerous electronics you’re likely to ever play with. |
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Posted On: 12/09/2008 2:17PM | View TUBSWEETIE's Profile | # | ||||||
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Damn, I never suspected the flyback transformer. I knew what it was, but I thought it was like a, you know, transformer... that’s solid-state, and never dies, but then again, why the **** would something solid-state have controls for focus and screen on it? So that does rather make sense. And I’ve heard they’re ****ing expensive. I get my parts from mouser.com, and I’m p sure that’s going to be one of those infamous “non-stocked” or “on order” parts that’ll take 3 months to ship. Log in to see images!
Yeah, I’ve worked with the dangerous/lethal parts of CRTs in the past, I’ve swapped tubes and such (discharging the, uh… clip under the suction cup… by grounding a screwdriver and slipping it under the cup).
Now, I always thought that the electron gun (hm) was the one responsible for making that high voltage… you sayin’ that the high voltage actually travels through the transformer, to the neck of the tube, and to the screen, in a full loop? Or does the flyback transformer merely maintain a high voltage across the front of the screen to catch the electrons or some****? That’s where I don’t get it now. Log in to see images! |
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Posted On: 12/09/2008 4:19PM | View FalconFour's Profile | # | ||||||
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The flyback makes a bunch of different high voltage outputs. The highest(?) voltage goes to energize the entire tube, then there’s some that go to drive the horizontal and vertical coils, then some more, higher current voltage to drive the coil. I think that’s how it works. My flyback from a dell 17” crt has four big red wires out the top for the super High voltage, i think one went to each of things i listed.
I’m not sure on what the high potential through the suction cup actually does. Time to check howstuffworks.com… TUBSWEETIE edited this message on 12/09/2008 5:59PM |
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Posted On: 12/09/2008 5:59PM | View TUBSWEETIE's Profile | # | ||||||
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bumpin’ for the memories |
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Posted On: 04/16/2009 12:12PM | View Fingerz's Profile | # | ||||||
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